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In addition to manufacturer specific installation instructions (that always have to be followed), here are some additional general steps:

Begin by removing the shoe moldings and remove the baseboards if you want to replace them with laminate versions. Next cut the door jam and the trim so the flooring will fit underneath. On top of a piece of the underlayment and vapor barrier, lay a floor plank upside down. Cut off the bottom of the jamb and casing with a jamb saw and then the plank should slide easily underneath.

You may need to install a temporary backstop in the doorway if you will be installing a finished strip, such as a reducer. The backstop can be glued, nailed or screwed to the subfloor.
You'll need to leave a gap at the walls for expansion whether you install the flooring over a concrete slab, existing flooring or a wood subfloor. A ¼ inch space is typical but recommendations vary. Maintain the right gap with temporary spacers.

Laminate trim pieces add a final decorative touch and most manufacturers offer a selection of pieces in colors and patterns to match their flooring. About the only item hard to find in laminate are vents and returns. Floorings.com supplies a range of real-wood vents, available in a range of wood species and stains to complement your laminate floors.
A range of trims is listed below. Let the floor dry overnight before you install them.
Baseboard - Nailed to the wall studs. Contrasts or matches with flooring.
Shoe molding - To cover expansion gap at the edge of the flooring. Nail to baseboard.
End molding - Finished the edge of the flooring where the shoe molding is not possible.
Stair nosing - Overhangs steps. Screw and glue into place.
T-molding - Handles transition between floors of the same height or two different laminate floors.
Reducer strip - This handles the transition from laminate floor to lower floor.

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